Acrylic has an estimated melting point of 350+ degrees. This almost triples most waxes (including the infamous Pure Virgin Carnauba Block Wax - Very, Very Expensive) which has an estimated melting point less than 104 degrees. Our competitors other products such as Show Glazes and Show Finish Products have even less tolerance to the heat!

For a twist on the rules, the ACRYLIC-WËRKS POLISH should be applied on a warm surface or if you like, in the direct sunlight for the best results. WHY? For starters as any surface warms it begins to expand, exposing the pores which are loaded with grime and contaminants. The ACRYLIC-WËRKS POLISH works in three stages, but from one product!

- 1st: The acrylic will clean and flush the contaminants from deep within the surface.

- 2nd: Without another product you will continue to work the polish into the surface thus sealing it with a non-porous UV protected acrylic surface.

- 3rd: Instead of buffing at this point take a clean slightly damp cloth and rub it over the surface and then dry buff to a crystal clear, very, very deep flawless reflection that is both durable and very difficult to match.

Waxes, wax-based products nor vampires like direct sunlight or a warm surface because the petroleum distillates evaporate too quickly creating a very gummy surface that is difficult and sometimes impossible to remove. Since most waxes do not respond well under these circumstances it would only stand to reason why they are not getting deep into the pores to clean and remove contaminants.

The ACRYLIC-WËRKS POLISH works on all surfaces except carpet and cloth. (Note, if you do get ACRYLIC-WËRKS POLISH on your cloth or carpet use a little fingernail brush and brush it out, there will be no residual stains.) As for other surfaces on the average automobile we encourage you apply it to the paint, black plastic trim, black rubber seals, chrome, aluminum, vinyl, plastics, faded headlamps, plexiglass, glass, tint, chassis, suspension components, engine, all stock or after market rims and anywhere or on anything else I failed to mention. You will be amazed at the staggering results on these surfaces

Now for waxes and wax-based products, DO NOT GET WAX ON YOUR BLACK PLASTIC TRIM! / DO NOT GET WAX ON YOUR BLACK RUBBER SEALS! (Makes you feel like Picasso working around the trim pieces.) What goes on first? Wax or trim shine, decisions, decisions!! Most folks (me included) just threw in the towel and started applying wax like a Kindergartner with fresh finger paints and paper, “outta my way!!” In the end you just have to spend more time with a detail brush to get that finished look and in today’s market that can be very time consuming since most manufacturers are using more black trim and exposing more vulnerable black rubber seals than ever for aesthetic purposes. And remember, before you apply most wax products to a surface it is recommended by most companies that you try it in an inconspicuous spot first. Ever asked why? In my humble opinion it has to be for liability purposes. See waxes operate mechanically, by this I mean whether you use a buffer or good old fashion elbow grease you are instructed in most cases to apply the wax in a circular motion, so the abrasives within the product can ever so slightly remove some of the surface. Ever been curious about the origins of the dreaded swirl-marks or why most companies offer a swirl-mark cover up somewhere in the multiple stage application process?